Culinary Creatives Chat: BEM Brooklyn

Sister duo Gabrielle and Danielle Davenport are on a mission to turn BEM | books & more into a one-of-a-kind literary experience centering Black culinary excellence.

By EatOkra

Picture this: A cafe by day and a wine bar by night, both within one 24/7 bookstore. Black food literature decorates the shelves in colorful glory—memoirs, cookbooks, poetry, and novels, all telling a unique, mouth-watering story. An open kitchen welcomes live culinary demos and classes; comfy couches seat authors for intimate book readings.

This is the vision of the sister duo Gabrielle and Danielle Davenport as they work to grow their brand, BEM | books & more, into a multifaceted brick-and-mortar shop.

“We have a vision to animate books as much as we can,” says Gabrielle. “Whether it’s a chef making a dinner from their new cookbook or you’re sending your kid for an after-school or summer camp class on how to make pasta, we can't wait to actually have it open and be able to welcome the community we've been building into it.”

While they work to bring the store to life, BEM Brooklyn shows up as an online retail shop and pop-up concept. One of their more recent events was a New York Juneteenth celebration hosted alongside veteran writer Nicole A. Taylor. “Bringing community together in celebration of Black food and Black literature is at the heart of what we do at BEM,” they wrote, in a recap of the festivities.

Naturally, the Davenport sisters are avid readers themselves. If you ask Danielle, “there's no such place as a bad place to read.” Reading, to her, is the ultimate solo dining activity, especially when it comes to food literature. Gabrielle has also noticed it’s becoming more popular for groups to convene in public spaces for reading experiences, leaning into "alone-together energy,” as she calls it.

But what do they look for in a reading-compatible restaurant? The sisters chat with EatOkra about the places ideal for reading as well as what’s to come with BEM | books & more, including its upcoming pop-up at the Culinary Creatives Conference.

On the ideal spots for dining and reading

Gabrielle: I would like to be a person who can pull a book out anywhere and actually focus, but that is not how my brain works. I think lighting is a main thing, if you want to be a place where people can be comfortable reading. Even if it's not the general ambient light, are there actual tiny lights at the tables that are effective?

Also, sound is really important. Because I love music and am always excited to engage with whatever the soundtrack is, finding a place where there’s music that I recognize, but it isn't too loud, is my ideal situation. That’s probably why I love Dick and Jane’s, because they are always playing good music, and it's at a level (at least on a weeknight when they don’t have a full DJ) where it's lovely and comfortable. I feel like maybe I could be in my living room, but I'm here and having a great beverage, and not I’m on my couch, which is cool. I also love Milk & Pull, it's a great option for bringing a book and having a coffee or tea to hang out for a little while.

Danielle: It's so funny, I was just at Sally's recently, and it was like a whole party vibe, but there have definitely been quieter afternoons. During the lunch hour, Sally’s is a spot right near me that has food I love, where I will definitely pull out a book as I'm waiting.

On the vision for public reading at BEM Brooklyn

Danielle: That’s something we’re also trying to create with BEM | books & more—a space where you’re surrounded by books, with food service happening, with food storytelling happening. Here's the place to smell the smells, taste the tastes, read the books, and have that whole experience together.

On why BEM Brooklyn exclusively spotlights Black food literature

Gabrielle: There are so many incredible Black-owned bookstores across the country, and that's a really strong tradition that we're very proud to be joining. There's also a tradition of culinary bookstores across the country. There wasn't a place doing both of those things. And growing up, both food and reading were really central to how our family spent time together. And as our relationship evolved and we grew up, those were, again, the things we were talking about the most often. So as we were figuring out what kind of business we might want to start together, we were like, “Wait a minute, why isn't there a Black food bookstore?” That seems like something that should exist. And that’s how the concept came together.

Danielle: Our mission statement talks about food being a gateway, a lens, on anything and everything. Food is a way to really think about the structures and systems that shape our world. One of the things that's been really fun is seeing all of the places where food shows up, even where you're not necessarily expecting it. I imagine that many of our authors are like, “Oh, I'm stocked in a Black food bookstore?” Yes, you are—those biscuits you’re eating when you’re talking about that XYZ thing, that pot on the stove that's bubbling…that brings the book into our world.

On the important role of Black food literature within the greater industry

Gabrielle: In any industry or culture, literature serves as the archive. This is how we get to write our own history as we're living it and be in community with each other. We can tell it how we experienced it, as opposed to having other people tell what happened or didn't happen. We have books from authors from all over the place, including folks who are living in countries that you don't think of as being part of the diaspora, but Black people are everywhere, doing all kinds of fabulous things. Being able to triangulate all of what Culinaria means to Black people is not only important from the historical archive standpoint, but also from a representation standpoint. That's very important to us.

Danielle: And as much as we are profoundly passionate about physical hard-copy books, there's also Black food storytelling, more broadly—the oral tradition as well. All of the stories that don’t necessarily make it to the page, but that are in our heads and hearts and communities. We want to uplift these stories as part of the conversation as well.

On the BEM Brooklyn pop-up at the upcoming Culinary Creatives Conference

Danielle: We’re so excited to be joining and making sure that books have a presence among all of the wonderful culinary conversations that are taking place. We'll be bringing some authors in. We'll be able to think about how to continue the conversations that are happening on the page, and we’ll have fun things for people to browse and take home with them.

Gabrielle: One of the delights of selling in person has been folks who work in and around food and beverage coming in and being like, “These are all my friends’ books on the same shelf, this is so exciting!” It’s a real honor for us to be a part of building culinary creatives’ libraries and being in conversation with them about what they're reading.

You've got to "C" it to believe it. Our ongoing #CulinaryCreativesChat series is a virtual space to empower Black food entrepreneurs through testimonies from thriving industry peers.